As part of my prep for the next trackday and to remedy an issue I had in the last one, I chose to upgrade my VSC control module to a newer one from a 2017+ GT86/BRZ.
It’s well known on the earlier cars like mine, that the VSC, even in track mode, is far too intrusive. This was very apparent to me on the track when it was constantly cutting power when trying to exit corners, and it really reined in any fun (hence me trying to turn it off, and ending up spinning).
The swap is well documented over on the FT86 forum, but since that forum is dying and only works half the time, I thought I would cover my experience with it.
Toyota released some good info when the facelifted 2017+ cars came out, which clarifies the changes to the VSC unit and the change from SPORT mode to TRACK mode.
My original unit, being the ~16MY blue dot in the above diagram, shows how much more slip the MY17 unit allows, both in Normal and Track modes.
Toyota also clarified what the different modes are and the differences between the new and old modes.
I spent all my time on the track (except for the one time I tried Mode 5) in Mode 3, which is pressing the SPORT button and having both lights come on. I couldnt get Mode 4 to work, though, as TRC kept re-enabling when turned off.
The good news is the swap is pretty easy. Only the electronics unit on the ABS pump needs to be swapped, so no fluid is lost or needs to be bled, and other than having to swap two wires on the early cars like mine, it’s plug and play. 2015+ cars may not need to be rewired, so double check that first.
I went on Yahoo Auctions Japan and hunted out a unit that met my criteria; it needed to be from a manual car, and have a production date after 2016. The manual car thing I had to check with the chassis number of the car the part was removed from, and photos of the unit indicated the build date
This number is the important one. Always check on the black plastic control unit (as this is the part we need), not just the alloy ABS unit, as it is possible to swap an older module onto a later ABS pump.
You can also check the part number on the ABS unit. 27536CA030 is one of the confirmed units that work (from the list on the FT86 forum), the 16 also indicates it’s a later 2016 unit and matches the 16 date on the VSC module.
Now, to the actual job. This is the ABS pump with VSC unit on it, in the front LH corner of the engine bay
Plenty of space to work
Disconnect the battery before beginning work, just in case.
Start by removing the connector from the unit. This has a big latching mech on it, and you need to press in this little button before you can lift the lever up
The lever should lift up, push the connector away from the unit and then click into place up the top once it’s fully unlatched
The back shell needs to be removed next. Cut the white zip tie holding the wiring, and then using a small pick or screwdriver pop the two clips on the harness end of the back shell, it then lifts up from that end and unhooks and comes away.
Once that is removed, you have access to the back of the wires. Before you can remove the two we need to move, you need to unlock the retaining clip inside the connector. This is the little pink tabs you can see inside the connector (when looking at the pin side)
It needs to be slid to the right of the connector in the photo (to the harness side of the plug) with a small pick or screwdriver
the below photo is unlocked, notice the gap above Pin 34
Now, using a small thin flat pin removal tool, you need to move the pink wire in slot 27 (top row, LH side) to pin 9 (labelled CLSE) and the white pin from slot 32 (top row in the middle) and move it to slot 8
Slots 8 and 9 are both filled with little white rubber plugs, which need to be removed. I used a pin from the front of the connector to poke it out a little bit and then finished pulling it out the back with tweezers, so I didnt loose it (and can reuse it in the now empty slots of pins 27 and 32)
I slid the wires into place, making sure they locked into place
Thats the wiring done. Slide the pink lock back, refit the rear shell, add a new zip tie to the wiring and put the connector aside.
The actual module itself is easy to swap. The screws are e-Torx E5 and there are four to remove
I didn’t take any photos of the actual swap because I didnt want to risk any contamination, but this is what the inside of the old unit looks like
Remove the screws, carefully remove the old module, and then carefully and gently slide the new one into place, making sure all the sticking out bits go where they need to go.
It looks no different with the replacement unit fitted… but I know it’s there.
To make sure that I walked the walk, I also grabbed an MY17 TRACK button from Japan. I couldn’t be seen pressing SPORT like a peasant
This is easy to swap, just gently reach into the shifter boot and tug up on the front (near the radio) of the shift surround, and it will unclip and allow access to the back of it. You have to lift the front first, as the buttons actually hook under the centre console and need to be slid forward. There is one big plug in the button pack, which is unplugged here
Remove the two screws, swap the buttons over, screw them back in, plug them in and refit the surround
Much nicer than the old SPORT button
The only catch here is that the 2013 cluster doesnt have a TRACK light, so it will still light up SPORT when the button is pressed.
With the VSC unit securely in place, the connector refitted, and the buttons swapped, I reconnected the battery and immediately got a series of ABS and traction control warning lights on the dash. Dont worry, go for a quick drive and they should clear themselves.
I havent been able to test the TRACK mode yet, since my next trackday isnt until later this month, but the giveaway that it’s working is (other than no warning lights on the dash) that the SPORT light in the dash no longer comes on with a short press of the TRACK button, it now needs a 1 or 2 second hold of the button to activate.
The other benefit, one that I havent had a chance to activate yet, is allegedly you can enable Hill Start Assist, to hold on hills, which might be handy if I’m feeling too lazy to use a handbrake. Details on turning it on in 2017+ cars is here, as it’s off by default.
I look forward to seeing how it reacts on track now, and will update with my thoughts when I can. I’m really hoping I will see some improvement in my lap times if it will stop killing my corner exists.